Spotlight | Kinoko

Welcome to Broadway Stages’ Spotlight, where we feature local shops, restaurants, organizations, individuals, and venues. We encourage our readers to join us in supporting these establishments and advancing local economic growth. For Women’s History Month, we are shining the spotlight on a few of the women-owned or oriented businesses in the neighborhoods where we work. This week, we are happy to share a new local favorite restaurant, Kinoko, and the chef/owner, Kelseay Dukae! 

In Japanese, Kinoko means mushroom, but one recent patron raved, “Kinoko must mean go eat at this restaurant!” This new Greenpoint restaurant offers casual hand-rolled sushi with a modern take on the Japanese staple. The owner and chef, Kelseay Dukae, is a New Orleans native. With this background, she creates inspired hand rolls with plant-forward combos of Asian, Creole and Cajun flavors.

Dukae started working at sushi restaurants in Louisiana as a teenager. In 2017, she opened a pop-up restaurant in a New Orleans farmer’s market. By 2021, New Orleans Magazine listed her creations on their list of the ‘Best Sushi in the City.’

But now, she is a proud New Yorker. “I’m a Greenpoint girl,” Dukae said. “Greenpoint through-and-through. This has been the only place I ever wanted to live in New York.” As such, she supports her neighbors. Kinoko serves Brooklyn Kura sake and Talea beer, both brewed in Brooklyn. She added, “We are primarily using all local and sustainable fish, local wine, sake and beer, and local mushrooms.”  

And while she is Greenpoint through and through, the cuisine she serves is more eclectic. From Gulf shrimp and Louisiana crawfish dumplings to Jambalaya fried rice, the menu is sure to offer something exclusive and delicious. 

But one of the most popular items is Jer’s Gumbo Ramen, which Dukea described as “Nola meets Japanese.” Jer is Jerilyn Ackel, Dukea’s mother, and has been anointed “the gumbo queen.” The dish has gulf shrimp, andouille sausage, chicken, okra, soy egg, scallions, and nori. For a complete menu, click here.

Dukea is not only bravely taking on small business ownership. As a female, she is a rarity in the sushi chef field. Less than one-quarter of sushi chefs are women. Traditional Japanese chefs can give many reasons why a woman cannot take her place behind the counter at a sushi restaurant, all outdated and erroneous. 

She noted, “An ancient Japanese mindset has kept women from becoming sushi masters. However, stereotypes are diminishing, and old traditional thinking is not upheld as it used to be. The Japanese/sushi world is behind on seeing women as equals in the kitchen, but it is flipping to a more progressive state. I’m excited for the future of women sushi masters and thrilled to be in the mix!” 

Kinoko is open Wednesday through Sunday, 5 to 10 p.m. And with its growing popularity, you would be wise to get reservations. Just click here! Keep an eye on the restaurant’s Facebook and Instagram pages for events and information, too!

Broadway Stages is thrilled to have a Cajun/Creole sushi house in our own backyard! As one customer said, “I didn’t know I needed this my life!” We are thrilled to support Kelseay and her work and hope you will, too. And when you do, tell them Broadway Stages sent you!